B & A Archery Inc.
7169 State Rd. Philadelphia 19135  215-333-3520
Ways you can update or upgrade your bow to todays spec's

Put a good stabilizer in front of that
bumper like a Hi-tek VF5 or a
Carbon Impact 7.5 and you will be
amazed how well it works together to
remove vibration from your bow.
Major Helping item
The Bumper, it is
placed between the
bow and your
stabilizer to remove
any and all vibration

Does a loop change my draw length??
*****NO*****
A loop was primarily used to correct nock
pinch off. Where a small bow had such acute
string angles it would pinch the arrow off the
string. Then the loop was found to draw the
string back in a parallel  position which
would keep the arrow on the string and was
better for tuning the bow if you had
problems paper tuning it.
Loop's

Metal (D) rings
Don't waste your money
These things drastically
reduce your bows speed
and cause over travel of
your bow string even
sometimes to a point of
hitting your rest.
Jim Fletcher Flat head release is
specifically designed for a loop,
it moves the trigger forward to
correct your anchor position
which was changed when you
installed the loop.
Timing Issues ????

Don't let anyone tell you that one cam bows don't have
timing issues that is totally wrong, they are more prone to
timing problems than other bows are. The one cam has to
be timed to a specific spot on the cam to be correct. If it is
off,  it is out of time. Most one cams are marked where they
should be timed. If a one cam bowstring stretches it goes
out of time and out of adjustment. If a two cam bowstring
stretches it stays correct, once set it does not have this
problem as it stretches evenly and your nock point does
not change. The only way, most of the time a two cam bow
goes out of time is for someone to have played with the
timing or a cable is breaking which can happen to any
bow , Very rarely does a 2 cam bow go out of time. You
have more chance seeing a one cam out or off it's mark.
When you have a loop installed
make sure it is tied on correctly.
There is only one way to do it
right, make sure yours is right
Make sure the loop end knots are tied
oppositely, this causes the loop to to be
stable on your string. One knot should be
behind the loop and the other in front of the
loop. This stops it from turning around your
bowstring. The picture is correct with
serving above both loop knots to locate your
arrow correctly. It should not be too tight
against the arrow but close. Brass nock
points in your loop takes away from your
bows speed. Serve your nock points in. This
is the only way to tie it correctly  there are
other ways to install a  loop but they fail to
correct the problems the loop was created to
correct. . If your loop does not look like this
one on the right come in and get it tied on
correctly. One bad way, illustrated below was to
tie the loop under a nock point which added the
pinch it was designed to get rid of.
Whisker Biscuit Rests
verses a dropaway rest ???

The biscuit rest is one of the best rests on the market
today and a new comer, the Hostage rest from Bowtech
archery is really making a big hit. NO VANE Damage
NADA NONE. These types of total capture rests are the
best hunting rests available. Because they have the
arrow at the ready at all times. No moving parts to break.
A dropaway on the other hand is extremely easy to tune
and shoot BUT lots of moving parts and the capability of
the arrow jumping off the rest or making noise while
lifting it in to place or an actuating string breaks Etc.
Simplicity is the way to go. If you go dropaway try the
2010 ripcord it is nice and it is a contained type.
(You do not "need" a loop)
A loop was designed to cure arrow pinch on
small bows  and get the arrow out straight
from problem bows, (tuning them)
if you don't, need it, don't put it on.
This picture to the right shows  the right way
to tie a loop on your string,---------------->
The correct release
set at the correct
length makes  the
shot execution
more exact. Set
your release to go
off with a minimal
amount of
pressure, but not to
light. It should
almost surprise
you when the shot  
goes off.
Arrows ???

Their are lots of ways to improve your bows speed, The
biggest offender is arrow weight and the next is string
weight. The heavier you make your string the slower
your bow will become. Remove your peep tube, A  
Lighter Peep sight and a smaller peep use a Fletcher
peep or the G5  they are better for speed. Tie in your
nock point in stead of brass nocks NOOO "D" rings A
Loop is good for tuning and better for speed. Smaller
good silencers but efficient.
Arrows
Reduce arrow overall weight, For instance a 2413 is a
lot lighter than a 2419 and still a strong shaft. Use a
comparison chart to get an idea of what shafts you can
use, it tells you all the recommended shaft sizes for
your setup. But this is not the law it just gets you in the
ball park for arrow length, Watch your length if you cut it
short back on the shelf, do not shoot with you finger up
in the front of the riser. Keep a correct hand position
Keep your arrow at least IBO 5 grains per pound 300
grains per 60 Pds. 350 grains per 70 Pds. 400 per 80 Pds
This is the right way
to tie the loop, the
red indicates the
served in locater's,
the bottom is under
the arrow, this forces
the arrow down on
the rest, the top
locater keeps the
loop from moving up
the string.  Seat the
arrow on the bottom
red serving. Do not
pinch the nock.
Leave it slightly loose
Fletcher Hook
Have a problem seeing
the target with your
sight ??????
There are a few ways to
remedy that,
Get a better sight on your bow

Put a lens on your sight

Shoot a kisser button
(with out  a peep site), with
both eyes open this is good for
closer shots, not for long shots

Do not use a kisser button
with a peep sight you defeat
the purpose of the peep and
the kisser button as you
already have 2 to 3 anchor
points you do not need any
more. Check any Pro you will
not see a kisser button.

Make sure your peep sight is
at least a 1/8" hole or bigger,
to small of a aperture lets you
Not see in low light
conditions. Make sure that
your peep has the right angle,
the peep should have a level
view through it and a hood
over it to provide shade and to
cut down glare in the peep.
Peeps with out a tube are a
little faster and quieter.

Stabilizers ?????

Stabilizers are another whole section I can expand on, They are not on the bow to balance it
they are on it to reduce shock and vibration and.  Along with tightening up your groups. There
are a lot of poor excuses for what they call stabilizers. First of all, Solid steel weights are not
stabilizers. They are exactly just a piece of steel on the front of your bow adding a lot of weight
to your bow and no benefit. You will see stabilizers on this site and there others that work, but
there are reasons why they do work and others do not. You want to use a stabilizer that
contains a dampening media or system inside it.
Hi-tek uses a silicate powder as Carbon Impact uses a gel suspension with a steel ball in it,
another one from them is the Quattro it is a rod stabilizer with an adjustable weight you can
slide it forward or back to suite your style of shooting. And others use different ways to dampen
the shot. DO NOT get a stabilizer for the looks,
Space age design and other goofy looks that attract you are to do just that, attract you. You must
test stabilizers prior to purchase against a good selection of stabilizers. Pick the one that best
suites your style of shooting, Leave the short ones for the kids,  5 or 6 inch are usually the way
to go. DO use a bumper between it and the bow, it makes all the difference in the world.
You will see long stabilizers 28" 30" 36"  these are for target and 3D shooting, they are great for
stabilizing your bow for really distant shots or indoor competition and again there are a lot of
companies making these, Easton is one of the good ones.  They make the X10, X7, and the ACE,
all are good. You can get different weights and end caps to get to a desired weight. There are
side bars and V bars to help balance out your system,
I shoot a X10 compressor stabilizer by Easton that has a vibration reduction system built in it.
These can be set up to perform the way you need them to. There are V bars that can be placed
on the front of the bow at the stabilizer mount and you can put small side bars on it to balance
out your set up and the can be of different sizes and weights to do this. And there are offset
bars for you to offset your stabilizer to reduce side kick, lots of help available to get it right.