
| Ways you can update or upgrade your bow to todays spec's |

Put a good stabilizer in front of that bumper like a Hi-tek VF5 or a Carbon Impact 7.5 and you will be amazed how well it works together to remove vibration from your bow. |
| Major Helping item The Bumper, it is placed between the bow and your stabilizer to remove any and all vibration |
Does a loop change my draw length?? *****NO***** A loop was primarily used to correct nock pinch off. Where a small bow had such acute string angles it would pinch the arrow off the string. Then the loop was found to draw the string back in a parallel position which would keep the arrow on the string and was better for tuning the bow if you had problems paper tuning it. |
| Loop's |
Metal (D) rings Don't waste your money These things drastically reduce your bows speed and cause over travel of your bow string even sometimes to a point of hitting your rest. |
| Jim Fletcher Flat head release is specifically designed for a loop, it moves the trigger forward to correct your anchor position which was changed when you installed the loop. |


| Don't let anyone tell you that one cam bows don't have timing issues that is totally wrong they are more prone to timing problems than other bows. The one cam has to be timed to a specific spot on the cam to be correct. If it is off it is out of time. Most one cams are marked where they should be timed. If a one cam bowstring stretches it goes out of time and out of adjustment. If a two cam bowstring stretches it stays correct, once set it does not have this problem as it stretches evenly and your nock point does not change. The only way, most of the time a two cam bow goes out of time is for someone to have played with the timing or a cable is breaking which can happen to any bow , Very rarely does one go out. |
| When you have a loop installed make sure it is tied on correctly. There is only one way to do it right, make sure yours is right |

| Notice the end knots they are tied the same with the knots behind the loop; this causes the loop to turn on your string. One Knot should be behind the loop and the other in front of the loop. This stops it from turning around your bowstring. The picture is correct with serving above and below the nock to locate your arrow correctly. It should not be too tight against the arrow but close. Brass nock points in your loop takes away from your bows speed. Serve your nock points in. This is the only way to tie it correctly there are other ways to install a loop but they fail to correct the problems the loop was created to correct. One bad way, illustrated below was to tie the loop under a nock point which added the pinch it was designed to get rid of. If your loop does not look like this on the right come in and get it tied on correctly. |
| Whisker Biscuit Rests verses a dropaway rest |
The biscuit rest is one of the best rests on the market today and a new comer, the Hostage rest from Bowtech archery is really making a big hit. NO VANE Damage NADA NONE. These types of total capture rests are the best hunting rests available. Because they have the arrow at the ready at all times. No moving parts to break. A dropaway on the other hand is extremely easy to tune and shoot BUT lots of moving parts and the capability of the arrow jumping off the rest or making noise while lifting it in to place or an actuating string breaks Etc. Simplicity is the way to go. |
| (You do not "need" a loop) A loop was designed to cure arrow pinch on small bows and get the arrow out straight from problem bows (tuning them) if you don't, need it, don't put it on. This picture to the right shows the wrong way to tie a loop on your string,----------------> |


| The correct release set at the correct length makes the shot execution more exact. Set your release to go off with a minimal amount of pressure, but not to light. It should almost surprise you when the shot goes off. |

